Oct 272015
 

Hungary - Furmint

I spent the last week traveling through time. It’s not something that you get to do every day. And as you might imagine, it was pretty darn memorable.

My companions were an amazing group: Master Sommeliers Peter Granoff and Scott Harper, blogger Joe Roberts, and Debbie Zachareas of the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant. Experts all, and veterans of many a visit to a famous wine region of the world. And yet this trip was different.

Part of it was the landscape and culture. We were in Tokaji; that legendary region of Hungary where even the language is from a different world—where last names come first, where every word changes depending on its use in the sentence, and where navigating a menu (Étlap, in Magyar) is as mysterious as the cabinet of Dr. Kaligari.

And then there were the wines. We began, as things always do, with dry wines made from the local grapes: furmint, to be sure, but also hárszlevelű, muscat, kabar, zéta, and kövérszőlő. Had many of those recently? The wines were fresh, lively, with great acidity and balance. We were charmed and impressed. In fact, cases, even pallets of wine were ordered for the shops and restaurants back home. They were delicious.

Then they pulled out the big guns: Tokaji Aszú wines made by adding buckets and buckets of botrytis affected grapes to the dry furmint wines. Suddenly the lightness and charm of the wines got wonderfully deeper and richer. Intense flavors, soaring aromatics, and finishes that I can still taste today, if I give myself a chance. We started with current vintages, and then worked backwards into wines that were twenty years old. The seemed fresh and full of vigor.

And five times we were invited to sample a wine historically reserve for the Emperor himself: Esszencia—the pure free-run juice of those Aszú grapes. Beyond nectar. Scott Harper said it best, when he noted that the wine in the glass seemed to be affected by a different level of gravity. Almost no alcohol, because no yeast could prosper in that soup of intense flavors and sugar levels approaching the ionosphere.

Quite an amazing journey. And I look forward to drinking some of these wines thanks to Peter, Scott and Debbie, who are making them available to us. No translation required.

Sep 282015
 

Pepe Galante, father of modern wine in Argentina

This week we’re spending a bit of time with Pepe Galante, the father of modern winemaking in Argentina. Of course, one of the charming things about Pepe is that he claims in all seriousness that this title belongs to his mentor, Francisco Oreglia, the author of the first books to focus specifically on winemaking in Argentina. Oreglia was Galante’s instructor at the Enology School at the Universidad Juan Agustin Maza (UJAM)—and he immediately recognized Galante’s skills and enthusiasm. He offered Pepe a job teaching at the school right after graduation, and Pepe still loves that part of giving back to the industry.

What impresses you the most when you meet Pepe is how quiet and understated he is—even a bit shy. For someone who has traveled the world and brought Argentine wines to the attention of the world, he still comes across as someone who takes each day as an opportunity to learn something more. In fact, when he talks about the young winemakers in Argentina today, most of whom have been his students, he talks about what they can teach us, not the other way around.

And then you taste his new wines from the spectacular new project in Argentina: Salentein. They are simply wonderful wines. Yes you expect great Malbec and delightful Torrontes. But you don’t expect world-class Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc. Or superb Shiraz from San Juan.

Makes for a pretty darn enjoyable evening—drinking wines like that alongside a living legend.

Mar 252014
 
Turkish Wine

Courtesy of Wines of Turkey

A five hour drive from Istanbul (not Constantinople 😉 ), Turkey’s Ankara province is home to Vinkara’s main vineyards and winery, which were established by the Gürsel family in 2003 in the village of Kalecik. This newer venture is part of the continued renaissance of Turkey’s viticultural and winemaking history, which originally dates to 7000 BCE.

Like many other Turkish wineries, Vinkara has hired an international consultant – in this case, Italy’s Marco Monchiero – as their winemaker. But, its main focus is decidedly Turkish. Although Vinkara’s plots include international varieties, it is the indigenous Narince and Kalecik Karasi that the company is widely promoting as they debut their wines in the U.S. (Does the world really need another Chardonnay or Merlot?) Moreover, 60% of its plantings are dedicated to Kalecik Karasi, along with the preservation of other important Turkish varieties.

The white Narince (pronounced Nah-rin-djeh), which translates as delicately, hails from the mid-Black Sea region (Tokat), situated a little closer to the coast than Kalecik. This variety is produced by Vinkara in two guises – regular (aka unoaked) and Reserve. The Reserve is treated to 14 months in oak barrels and it unfortunately shows. When tasting the two wines side by side, the overwhelming preference among the four of us was for the unoaked version. Perhaps the variety is just too delicate for so much time in oak (Kavaklidere’s Prestige Narince only spends nine months in oak and seemed much more balanced to my palate on previous tastings).

Also available in unoaked and oaked styles, the Kalecik Karasi (pronounced Kah-le-djic-car-ah-ser) is a red grape whose name stems from its origin’s proximity to the village of Kalecik, translating as “black from the small castle” given that Kalecik is home to –you guessed it– a small castle. This low tannin variety offers lovely freshness and bright red fruit character on the palate. Much less delicate than the Narince, the Reserve Kalecik Karasi wasn’t hurt by its 14 months of oak aging.

Choosing to drink these wines provides a refreshing change of pace, and, with the exception of the Reserve Narince, I found them to be well balanced, well made wines with good fruit, nice acidity and good length.

The company’s circular logo, prominently featured on every bottle, displays not only its name and location, but also the phrase “This is the time, my love, to pour the wine…” And I agree; you might say, it’s a Turkish delight.

For more information on Turkey’s wines, regions and its indigenous grape varieties, please see the Wines of Turkey website.

Oct 142013
 

 

Grapes on a Train

Photo Credit: Tracy Ellen Kamens

From walk-around wine tastings and dinners with winemakers to clever titles and cute comparisons, it’s challenging for wine public relations people to create something new and different for the press and trade. However, the folks at Complexity – New Zealand  have certainly succeeded with their Grapes on a Train event held in late September.

“All aboard!” came the shouts from the conductors as we assembled on the platform at New York Penn Station very early on a Sunday morning. We were about to embark on a unique journey, partially retracing the tracks of the famed 20th Century Limited.

Operated by the New York Central Railroad  from 1902 to 1967, the 20th Century Limited provided express service from New York to Chicago, making the journey in only 16 hours.  The passenger train was known for its high level of service, complete with its signature red carpet rolled out in the station platforms on either end. As journalists and sommeliers, we were similarly given the red carpet treatment when we entered the Hickory Creek train car, hooked up behind the regular Amtrak service to Montreal. This historic, Pullman car was part of the 20th Century Limited’s re-launch in 1948 and has now been restored to its former glory, used for private events held along Amtrak’s existing routes.

Given its remarkable history, the 20th Century Limited has been prominently featured in books and Broadway we well as movies, such as Alfred Hitchcock’s North by Northwest.Thankfully, instead of being greeted by villains and spies, the group was welcomed aboard by winemakers from some of New Zealand’s top wineries.

Upon departure, we headed north past beautiful views of the Hudson River and fall foliage on our way to Canada. But, while the scenery was stunning, our true itinerary was New Zealand, as the winemakers presented several seminars with guided tastings.

The seminars were led by the winemakers, all members of the Complexity-New Zealand consortium. This portfolio crosses wine regions and emphasizes New Zealand’s high quality wines, with membership currently limited to 17 producers.   We kicked off the day with a general introduction to New Zealand – its history, its culture, its people and its land. With the stage set, we then moved onto the varietally-focused tastings.

Wines on the Train

Photo Credit: Tracy Ellen Kamens

 

Sauvignon Blanc with Brett Bermingham, Winemaker of Nautilus Estate and Tim Heath, Winemaker at Cloudy Bay
It’s nearly impossible to speak about New Zealand wine without mentioning Sauvignon Blanc as the grape that put New Zealand on the world stage. However, the discussion centered on the diversity of Sauvignon Blanc, looking at differences among grapes grown on gravels compared to those grown on clays as well as among the Wairau and Awatere Valleys situated within the greater Marlborough region. In this regard, clay soils provide more herbal/green notes and less tropical fruit. As New Zealand producers become more experienced and their vines become more mature, it is expected that more sophisticated styles of Sauvignon Blanc will be seen in the future. Among the most interesting wines tasted in this session (and perhaps of the entire event) was a Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from 1996, which showed that although these wines are best enjoyed in their youth, they can provide complex aromas and flavors with age. Among the younger wines, I really liked the Mud House “The Woolshed” Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Marlborough, New Zealand.

Aromatics Seminar with Rudi Bauer, Winemaker of Quartz Reef and Ben Glover, Chief Winemaker at Mud House Wines
Less well known than Sauvignon Blanc, the aromatic white varieties of New Zealand can be traced back to the 1980s when Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris were first planted. Rudi suggested that these varieties were more about purity of varietal expression than about winemaking, additionally emphasizing the link between aromatics and acidity. Rudi acknowledged that you don’t always know what you are getting from Pinot Gris, but with Riesling, the standard of quality is better. He felt that the reason Pinot Gris was way behind Riesling in its development was that the initial stock had come from Geisenheim, when the focus was on quantity, not quality. As progress is made, alcohol levels are coming down as are sugar levels. Consequently, Pinot Gris wines are becoming more food friendly to support cuisine along with a trend toward longer time spent on the lees, resulting in wines with more richness and texture. My favorite wine of the session was the Mt. Difficulty Pinot Gris 2012 , Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand.

Pinot Noir with Matt Dicey, General Manager and Winemaker of Mt. Difficulty Wines and Ben Glover, Chief Winemaker at Mud House Wines
Although Matt admitted that Burgundy is a reference point for Pinot Noir, he also emphasized the word, Tūrangawaewae, which is Maori for “where we stand,” an indigenous concept similar to that of terroir. Building on this aspect, he mentioned the regional and vineyard differences as well as the increased exposure to UV light in New Zealand as compared to vineyards in the northern hemisphere. Moreover, Central Otago fruit is credited with delivering darker fruit flavors, while Marlborough is generally more savory in style. With wines from both of these regions, the session tasting provided further confirmation of this diversity. My favorite was the Villa Maria Taylors Pass Pinot Noir 2010, Marlborough, New Zealand.

Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Syrah with Nick Picone, Senior Winemaker of Villa Maria Estate
Nick referred to the wines in his session as “hidden gems,” suggesting that most people know a whole lot less about these wines than others from New Zealand. Turning first to Chardonnay, he noted that premium NZ Chardonnay is typically hand picked, whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented with good freshness and a purity of fruit. Wines from the warmer north are picked earlier and at lower sugars, while wines from the cooler south with have more lime and citrus notes, with intense minerality in those from Central Otago. When discussing Bordeaux style wines, which are best associated with Hawkes Bay, Nick attributed the turning point for this region to the establishment of the Gimblett Gravels. Finally, he spoke of New Zealand Syrah, which he described as being closer to the Rhône Valley in style than to Australia, despite the geographic proximity. I was impressed with the Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay 2009, Auckland, New Zealand.

After arriving in Montreal, we stopped at the hotel to freshen up before heading to an evening BBQ, held at a rented house in the Mont-Royal neighborhood. From the home’s rooftop, we could see the Olympic Park, but the fall weather pushed most of us inside where we proceeded to enjoy a delicious meal accompanied by an enormous selection of wines. Having been to New Zealand several years ago, I was especially pleased to see wines from Amisfield, Ata Rangi and Te Kairanga, all places we visited (and tasted at) on our trip.

The next morning, it was off to the airport for the flight home, packed with luggage and great memories of a fun and festive virtual visit to New Zealand.

Jun 032013
 

VESTAThe Viticulture and Enology Science and Technology Alliance (VESTA) curriculum retreat on June 1 in Niagara Falls brought together more than 40 top academics and administrators to work together to develop and refine the world’s best practices on subjectslike courses in viticulture, enology, and wine marketing.

It was a great group of people, all working hard to get us to the next level.  And it was great to see some old friends there, and enjoy what they brought to the meeting:  Ray Johnson of Sonoma State University, Patty Held from Missouri, Pat Howe from ETS Laboratories and Cornell University, John Giannini from Fresno State, Paul Gospodarczyk from Chicago…

And Michelle Norgren from VESTA itself…

Bright people.  And a great program.