Oct 272015
 

Hungary - Furmint

I spent the last week traveling through time. It’s not something that you get to do every day. And as you might imagine, it was pretty darn memorable.

My companions were an amazing group: Master Sommeliers Peter Granoff and Scott Harper, blogger Joe Roberts, and Debbie Zachareas of the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant. Experts all, and veterans of many a visit to a famous wine region of the world. And yet this trip was different.

Part of it was the landscape and culture. We were in Tokaji; that legendary region of Hungary where even the language is from a different world—where last names come first, where every word changes depending on its use in the sentence, and where navigating a menu (Étlap, in Magyar) is as mysterious as the cabinet of Dr. Kaligari.

And then there were the wines. We began, as things always do, with dry wines made from the local grapes: furmint, to be sure, but also hárszlevelű, muscat, kabar, zéta, and kövérszőlő. Had many of those recently? The wines were fresh, lively, with great acidity and balance. We were charmed and impressed. In fact, cases, even pallets of wine were ordered for the shops and restaurants back home. They were delicious.

Then they pulled out the big guns: Tokaji Aszú wines made by adding buckets and buckets of botrytis affected grapes to the dry furmint wines. Suddenly the lightness and charm of the wines got wonderfully deeper and richer. Intense flavors, soaring aromatics, and finishes that I can still taste today, if I give myself a chance. We started with current vintages, and then worked backwards into wines that were twenty years old. The seemed fresh and full of vigor.

And five times we were invited to sample a wine historically reserve for the Emperor himself: Esszencia—the pure free-run juice of those Aszú grapes. Beyond nectar. Scott Harper said it best, when he noted that the wine in the glass seemed to be affected by a different level of gravity. Almost no alcohol, because no yeast could prosper in that soup of intense flavors and sugar levels approaching the ionosphere.

Quite an amazing journey. And I look forward to drinking some of these wines thanks to Peter, Scott and Debbie, who are making them available to us. No translation required.

Oct 122015
 

Michigan Wine - Chateau Chantal

This summer, my family and I took a trip to Traverse City, Michigan to spend some R&R and check out Michigan wine country. Not many folks outside of the state ever consider Michigan wine, but they should. The mitten state has some very dedicated and talented winemakers, and it shows in the quality of the wines they craft.

There are several winegrowing AVAs within the state. The best, in my opinion, are the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas, which is where we spent our time on this trip. I’ve been to the area before, but before I could legally drink. So, needless to say, it had been a while. As we drove from winery to winery, I was struck by the beauty of the area. I’ve been wine tasting in a lot of regions, including California (all over), Oregon, Washington, Virginia, Texas, New York, Maryland, Missouri, Colorado, Ohio, Spain, Italy, and France. Hands down, the most beautiful region has to be the Old Mission Peninsula. It was absolutely stunning! I highly recommend a visit.

Not only are the views tremendous, but the people are friendly, helpful, and hospitable. It reminded me a bit of Napa Valley in the old days. There was an obvious love of the area and its wine in everyone we met.

Michigan is known for producing great Rieslings. And they are. While I don’t pretend to know all the nuances of the growing conditions, I’d wager it’s a combination of latitude, lake effect, and soil type. In addition to Riesling, however, the area produces a number of other Vitus Vinifera and hybrid varietals. We tasted some great Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc, and Gewurztraminer. I think the region has some room for improvement with their Pinot Noir.

In addition to grape wines, the state is the country’s leader in the production of fruit wine such as cherry wine. We tried a few of these, and they were quite good.

During our time, we visited Chateau Chantal, 2 Lads Winery, Bowers Harbor Vineyards, and Black Star Farms, and had a wonderful experience at each. I also recommend wines from Left Foot Charley, L. Mawby, and Chateau Grand Traverse.

Oct 022015
 
TEXSOM International Wine Awards

Photo Credit: Texas Monthly

Last week, I received an invitation to judge at the TEXSOM International Wine Awards in 2016. This is one of the best in the country, for so many reasons. The judges really draw on the connections of James Tidwell MS, and Drew Hendricks MS, with a strong backbone of legacy from Becky Murphy. Those are three of our favorite people in the wine business, and their friends, quite often, turn out to be our friends, too—with enough MS (Master Sommelier) and MW (Master of Wine) post-nomials to fill a couple of large wine glasses.

And the organization, again based on Becky’s initial framework, is smooth and efficient. That makes being a judge a lot easier, and a lot more fun.

And then there’s the scene in Dallas, with great food in all kinds of different locations and styles.

For those of you who think Texas and wine don’t go together, you don’t know what you’re missing.